Sun, Sea, Sand And Skippy

Sydney Morning Herald

Tuesday September 19, 2000

Keith Austin

Fancy some kangaroo or emu?

In that case, this Bondi icon is the place to be.

Within cooee of the volleyball stadium on Bondi beach, within earshot of the slap of flesh on balls and the harsh grate of sand in bikini bottoms, there is a local institution which must not be missed if you are an Olympic visitor. (Hell, nip along even if you're not, eh?)

This goes doubly so if you've been sitting right up at the back of the stadium in the sun all day. Huge, throbbing and pink (the building, not you, we hope), the Bondi Hotel will be the place to cool down with an icy beer and to get some scoff in.

Aaaah, the Bondi Hotel - scene of an early tryst between Popsi and myself. To this day I still can't remember whether she was working behind the bar or if she just sold me someone else's beer out of the goodness of her heart. The thing is, she can still happily recall the days when you could lob up there and cook your own steak for $4.

It is tempting to say "those were the days", but those were also the days when the place had acquired a not-unearned reputation for late-night carousing and drunkenness that often spilled out onto the surrounding streets.

Today it is a different kettle of fish and has managed to transform itself into all things to all men, and a few boys and girlies. For while the wee small hours are a time to be avoided by old hands such as myself, it is still renowned for its happy night-life, guarded as it is by men in black suits with scowls that can strip paint at the sight of a fake ID.

On the other hand, lunchtime and into the afternoon is an oasis of tranquillity, with the high-ceilinged beige interior divided into five or six layers of relaxation.

But let's put to one side the pokie room, the copious pool areas and the video games - easy to do because they are gently farmed out to the sides, leaving plenty of elbow room in the main dining areas.

Despite my vicarious nostalgia for the days of yore and the $4 steak, it's nice to see the Bondi Hotel up the stakes as far as food is concerned. Like people who live in London and never go to Westminster Abbey, we do not tend to frequent the Bondi. This has been a mistake, for it does a rather nice Skippy with mash and bok choy - and what would you rather eat in Australia than a kangaroo? Preferably rare enough that it's just stopped hopping? Lovely jubbly.

I am told, too, that emu will be on the menu during this Olympic time. The only things missing will be koala and dingo. Which is a shame as far as koalas are concerned, because you'd get that distinct eucalypt tang without having to marinate it.

Another local favourite is the Balmain bug, which is served simply - barbecued with bok choy. And you can always tell a dish is a success when you spend the rest of the day picking it out of your partner's eyebrows. Gold, gold, gold.

The Bondi Hotel

178 Campbell Parade, Bondi.

TEL: 9130 3271

Open Every day 11am-10.30pm.

Tried: Kangaroo and mash ($17.50), Balmain bugs ($18.50).

Bottom line

$36

© 2000 Sydney Morning Herald

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