Farewell To The Motel California

The Age

Tuesday August 17, 1999

John Lethlean

In most parts of Melbourne within cooee of the CBD, the sudden emergence of something like DiPalma's would raise only the faintest whiff of attention.

It is, after all, yet another quite smart, cleanly designed Italianish bistro: hardwood floors, bistro chairs, off-white walls, Cowboy Junkies on the sound system, caesar salad on the menu.

We think you know the form. These things are everywhere.

But in the Harp shopping village of sleepy East Kew, where there is still a business that proudly declares itself the "Friendly Grocer" swimming against the mega-supermarket tide, this is a major curiosity.

Folk cross the street to have a good look. Couples stop to read the menu. Passers-by simply stand on the footpath outside DiPalma's and stare. Maybe they're worrying the Harp is to become the next St Kilda.

So what will they make of it in summer, when the big folding windows open to let the sounds and smells of modern cafe life loose on the good burghers of Boroondara? The waft of espresso. The tinkle of wine glasses. The meaningful "mmmmmmm" people involuntarily emit when they take their first bite of a pizza. There may be chaos.

Never mind. There are two things you need to know when you come to live in this part of suburbia: the garbage goes out on Monday nights and DiPalma's makes the best pizza in the district. Simple as that.

But this reputation wasn't forged in these newly opened premises. For as long as I can remember, the California Motel has been on Barkers Road opposite Xavier College (there's a BP service station attached to the site, too) and for a little more than a decade, DiPalma's at the motel churned out pizza from a wood oven that did the heart a great deal of good.

In its old incarnation, it was a fairly daggy-looking place that served pizza and pasta, and thus attracted horrible parents who thought it was fine to let their kids run riot indoors. DiPalma's was branded "kid-friendly", often an appellation that marks a place as unworthy of serious foodie attention.

I seem to recall a sign on the wall that resulted from this Sunday evening mayhem, asking parents to restrain their little pride and joys (or is that prides and joy?).

Perhaps the DiPalma family had had enough. They moved out of the California Motel earlier this year and opened this flash new restaurant on the auspicious date of 1 July.

A leading Melbourne chef who lives in the area gently mentions the opening of DiPalma's over coffee in one of the area's other few decent cafes. "But don't try going for dinner," he says. "It's packed every night."

Nobody with any sense is going to let their children loose in here (although crayons are still available for spontaneous table-top art on the butcher's paper overlays).

A first attempt to board the good ship DiPalma's is thwarted on exactly this basis. We arrive on a Sunday evening, station wagon jammed with sub-five-year-olds, take one look at this smart new oasis of life and youth, and keep driving. That's no place for children: way too smart.

A second assault is planned for a midweek lunch, when the competition for tables is less than fierce. It's a bright, friendly space, as clean as a whistle, with warm touches to provide a little humanity: interesting paintings, feature walls painted in colors like rich watermelon and plum, and plenty of timber to offset the harder modern edges. DiPalma's is easy to like.

And like most modern food-beverage businesses, DiPalma's begs to be used in a number of ways - bar, cafe or restaurant - and each is handled well. There is, for example, a reasonable selection of wines and most are available by the glass, a good thing in itself provided they arrive in good nick (one did not). There are plenty of different beer styles, too.

As a cafe - a place for good coffee, a natter and something cheap to eat - DiPalma's excels. Almost everything from the pizza menu is excellent (the pleasure of tucking into the smoky wood-fired base topped with a sweet tomato passata, mozzarella, artichoke pieces and green olive halves, all smothered with translucent pink slices of prosciutto crudo, is enduring) and at $10.50, good value.

This is the sort of uncomplicated product, assembled from good ingredients, that more should emulate (although it will be a while before you can convince me their pizza combining smoked salmon and camembert has merit).

As a restaurant cooking slightly less snacky food to order, DiPalma's does a pretty fair job too, although utilitarian cutlery and crockery let it down. In addition to a small list of quick, light foods (that caesar salad, fish and chips, calamari, sirloin with fries and salad), there is a list of daily specials printed on a chalkboard that reflects the kitchen's inspirations.

A good, but over-chillied risotto of the day with lots of garlic, baby spinach, pine nuts, button mushrooms and semi-dried tomato and a garnish of deep-fried leek shreds is one of the specials I would happily return for. The flavors were robust, almost brash, but the rice had nice texture and stock flavor ($14).

A grilled butterfish fillet, on top of a jumble of grilled vegetables - carrot, zucchini, red capsicum, turnip, baby beet - also showed sharp, contemporary presentation. It was surrounded by a light dressing of olive oil, lemon, shallot and fresh herbs, and was nicely cooked ($17.50). Butterfish is a species I'd like to see used more often.

The desserts list plies safe, but understandable waters: tiramisu, gelati, semifreddo et al. These are, after all, things that sell. A frothy zabaglione, served warm in a dessert glass with good icecream at the bottom, was pleasant enough, although heavy on the marsala ($7).

It's not high cooking but it does rely on fresh produce, and value for money is an important part of the equation. The one waiter on duty does an OK job. It's a recipe for continued success.

* John Lethlean is co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2000, which will be released on Tuesday, 31 August.

The summary

13/20

An ideal local pizzeria-cafe making a greater-than-usual effort to provide popular, affordable food.

Owner: John DiPalma

Chef: Matthew Waldron

Wine list: brief, fair. BYO (wine only)

Corkage: $1 per person

Vegetarian options: several pizza, several daily specials

Seats: 90

Non-smoking area: yes

Outdoor dining: yes

Wheelchair friendly: yes

Parking: street

Hours: brunch from 9am; lunch midday-3pm; dinner daily 6-10pm

Bill: about $50 for two (two courses and coffee) plus drinks

Cards: AE BC DC MC V

Scores: 1-10: unacceptable, don't bother. 11-12: just OK, some shortcomings. 13: getting there. 14: Recommended. 15: Really good. 16: Really, really good. 17: Excellent. 18: An outstanding experience. 19-20: Approaching perfection, Victoria's best.

© 1999 The Age

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